Things to Do in Capri
Before going, Capri was just a name I had heard of but knew nothing about. However, since it was part of the tour, I decided to do a bit of research. When I read from Saffet Emre Tonguç that the name means “garden of paradise” and that many emperors had set foot on the island and fallen in love with it, I became hopeful that I would enjoy it. In the same article, there was also mention of a writer who didn’t like the island at all, but I tried to shut myself off from such negative impressions, thinking I shouldn’t be biased.
As we were heading to the island, the sunrise in Naples gave me a positive feeling that it would be a good day. However, when we boarded the ferry across from Castel Nuovo and set off to sea, the turbulence and the distribution of motion sickness bags put a slight damper on those positive vibes. After seeing the state of the people sitting in the front of the ferry, we who were seated in the back felt grateful for our seats. Keep this in mind—apparently, the front section shakes more, and that day was one of the better winter days on the sea. If you’re prone to seasickness, it’s highly recommended to carry medication.
After about a 1.5-hour journey, we set foot on the island, and in the joy of being off the ferry, I didn’t realize that the sun was starting to retreat. As I debated whether I’d regret not taking a photo of the sunlight reflecting on the harbor, I wondered if I had subconsciously anticipated the possibility of the sun disappearing. If you’re not on a tour, you can take the funicular from the port to the main spots in the upper parts of the island, but on a tour, transportation is arranged for you. Interestingly, not only tourists like us, but also Italians from Naples had joined day tours. We noticed this when we repeatedly bumped into a group of fellow ferry passengers from Venice, who insisted on speaking to us in Italian. Some Italians were even carrying suitcases, indicating that they were planning to stay for New Year’s Eve, which we wouldn’t get to experience.
We started our tour at the top, in the Anacapri section. There was another higher peak accessible by cable car (Mount Solaro), but according to our guide, once the sun disappeared, the mist had hidden any worthwhile view. If you recall, we had bad luck with the peaks in the Black Sea region earlier this year too. At least here, we didn’t even intend to go up, so we didn’t face any disappointment. The castle we passed on the way up was named after Barbarossa Hayrettin Pasha. Apparently, he left his mark on the island after being held captive here in the 16th century. Throughout the tour, our guide frequently mentioned that the Mediterranean was referred to as a “Turkish Lake” and that taxes were collected from Italians to protect the southern coasts of Italy. The Italians even had a saying, “Mother, the Turks are coming,” expressing their fear. We must have really instilled fear everywhere—what a reputation we had! 🙂
When we arrived at Anacapri, we were greeted by closed shops, empty streets, and a sunless sky. Oh, no, actually, the first thing we encountered was the Red House (Cassa Rossa). As the name suggests, it’s red, and inside, there are paintings and photos of the island from the 19th and 20th centuries, but we didn’t go in, so I can’t comment on them. In my opinion, more interesting than the Red House were the purple cauliflowers sold in a nearby market.
The view that greeted us as we walked toward the villa of Swedish doctor and psychiatrist Axel Munthe (Villa San Michele) in Anacapri was promising; the beauty of the road and the villa doors impressed us. You can photograph the view from just past the villa, but don’t expect too much from it. And when you hear that there used to be a funicular, but it was once only accessible by stairs, you can’t miss seeing those stairs.
Anacapri was also where we took a lunch break, at a restaurant called “Ristorante Barbarossa.” Barbarossa is everywhere! 🙂 Our meal started with a little (!) misunderstanding. We thought we would pay 15 euros for pasta, fish, dessert, and a drink, but we ended up with a fixed menu of ravioli, tiramisu, and alcoholic/non-alcoholic drinks for 12 euros, which we ate with a view (!) that our guide emphasized but we couldn’t see. Fortunately, the food was good, and I had never thought of pasta as just a starter for the Italians.
Our next stop was the more crowded and luxurious part of the island, Capri itself, home to luxury hotels and shops. The most beautiful stop here was the Augustus Gardens and the path leading to them. While passing by a perfume shop on the way, the scent bottles they had set out for people to smell added a pleasant touch, though despite sniffing them all, I didn’t find one that would entice me to go inside. The view from the Augustus Gardens could have impressed us more if we hadn’t gone to Amalfi the day before. Still, when you take photos without capturing the villas, it can compete with the Amalfi Coast. Speaking of villas, you can see the villas of many celebrities from these gardens—Sophia Loren, Swarovski, Dolce & Gabbana, and more. Unlike most people, I didn’t find this part particularly interesting. If the guide hadn’t pointed them out, I probably wouldn’t have asked, “Which one belongs to whom?” And don’t imagine a garden like those in French or Italian palaces; the only feature of this garden is the view.
When I say luxury shops, I mean real luxury, which is not surprising for an island that hosts so many celebrities. These shops weren’t put here for people like you and me. Maybe there are some rich folks among you who want to buy a villa in Capri? 🙂 The shops were closed when we visited, as it was December 31st, which had some side effects, but it didn’t bother me much. Still, walk along the street with the shops—it looked especially charming with New Year’s decorations.
Can you guess which shop we found here that we had seen in Sorrento? A little hint: I say “free samples,” and without saying more, you probably guessed I’m talking about Nino & Friends. However, the samples here weren’t as generous as in Sorrento, but to be fair, we weren’t that hungry either, hmpf 🙂 It’s hard to miss this place, with chocolate flowing in the window—quite misleading!
In the famous Piazzetta square, there were cafés filled with people trying to stay warm under heaters. Of course, we preferred to explore the narrow streets. If you walk along these narrow streets and see people gathered in one spot, take a turn, and you’ll find a tiny bakery with a line in front. We didn’t try the sweets here because we had already indulged in strawberries earlier, but try them for us, won’t you? Let us know how they are—who knows, maybe we’ll return one day; we just can’t seem to give up on Italy. Near the main square, you’ll also find many cafés, souvenir shops, and places to buy limoncello. You’ll see lots of lemon trees on the island.
Now, as I organize my notes, I realize it’s unfortunate I wasn’t aware of the Blue Grotto, originally named Gratto Azzurro. The cave apparently offers a stunning, vibrant blue view created by the effect of the sun’s rays. Boats depart from the port to take you there—what a shame we missed it.
I can’t even imagine what it’s like here in summer. A previous visitor told us that in the summer, you’re shoulder to shoulder, with no space to breathe, so consider yourselves warned 🙂 I think Capri is best enjoyed in the spring—both spring and fall would be lovely, in my opinion. If you’re in Naples, I’d recommend taking a day trip here.
