Things to Do in Sirince
Şirince used to be called Çirkince. The villagers named this charming place “Çirkince” (which means “ugly”) to avoid drawing attention to it. However, over time, visitors realized that the place was far from ugly, and its name was changed to Şirince (meaning “cute”).
Before the War of Independence, the village was inhabited by Greeks, but after the population exchange, Turks who had lived in Greece settled here. Despite the new residents, they preserved the Greek houses and the village’s original character.
For some people, the name Şirince brings to mind the Smurfs (Şirinler), due to its similarity in sound in Turkish. Aware of this association, local shopkeepers have created Smurf-themed magnets. I think the Smurfs’ village could easily be a place like this! You might also remember it for the prophecy related to December 21, 2012, when Şirince was rumored to be one of the places that would survive the apocalypse. I recall hearing that many visitors, especially from abroad, came during that time, leading to a surge in tourism.
Another thing that comes to mind when thinking of Şirince is its wine. Years ago, when I visited with a tour, I remember wine tasting and trying stuffed zucchini flowers for the first time, which I loved. On my recent visit, I found stuffed zucchini flowers again, freshly made at Gülgün Abla’s place.
Places to Visit in Şirince
The best thing to explore in Şirince is its streets. You can photograph the old Greek houses from different angles, fall in love with some of them, and browse the many vendors lining the streets. You’ll be frequently invited to try wine, and if you’re a wine lover, don’t leave without tasting their fruity wines, which range from melon to blackberry.
The wooden-vaulted church (St. Demetrius) is a short walk from the entrance to the village if you follow the signs. The interior and courtyard of the church have been restored, and you can see photos of the restoration showing the church’s transformation. Nearby, there are places offering Turkish coffee cooked in sand and shops selling soaps that claim to cure all kinds of ailments, as well as various souvenirs.
Another church is the Church of St. John the Baptist. The interior is beautifully utilized, and when we visited, there was an exhibition featuring photos of the village’s women and information about their activities. There’s also a café right in front where you can sit and take pictures of the surrounding houses. According to what I read, you can also try elderberry syrup here, but I didn’t get a chance to taste it—so if you do, let me know how it is!
In the central square, there is the Taş Mektep Museum, a free-entry museum showcasing the history of education from the Tanzimat era to the Republic, along with information about Şirince’s history. Various local items are also on display, and there’s a wine cellar in the basement. There is a restraurant situated in the garden of Taş Mektep.
Navigating the narrow streets in the market area can be a bit challenging. One thing to watch out for is the marked stones placed by shopkeepers—try not to step on them, as they are very slippery. As you walk through the market, you’ll mostly see clothing made from Şile fabric, and prices aren’t too high. Blackberry ice cream is also famous here, though we weren’t particularly impressed by it. There are also plenty of elderly women selling items like thyme, tarhana, and fresh walnuts—perfect for any shopping needs you may have.
Where to Eat in Şirince
You’ll find many options for food. Just pick a place that catches your eye. The Artemis Restaurant in the garden of the Taş Mektep Museum offers a variety of dishes, from gözleme to kebabs, with a beautiful view, though the kebab prices are a bit high.
We ate skewers and stuffed zucchini flowers at Gülgün Abla’s place; the food was tasty, though we weren’t entirely satisfied with the cleanliness. If you sit here, be sure to chat and take a picture with the elderly lady out front (who happens to be Gülgün Abla’s mother-in-law). The lady even knows some foreign languages—when taking a picture, she counts “one-two…” and when she finishes, you take the photo! There are also plenty of other dining options in the market.
How to Get to Şirince
Şirince is just a short distance from Selçuk, so if you’re in the south of Kuşadası or İzmir, I highly recommend a visit. There are minibuses and buses from Selcuk bus terminal. If you’re planning to see Ephesus, it’s quite close, so don’t miss the chance to stop by and decide for yourself—Şirince or Çirkince?
If you’d like to explore holiday destinations in İzmir, you can check out this post.