Places to Visit in Kars

Church of the Twelve Apostles (Kümbet Mosque)

As the name in parentheses suggests, the Church of the Twelve Apostles is now used as a mosque. The church, located at the foot of the castle, was built between 932 and 937 by the Armenian Bagratid Kingdom. During this period, a rival Armenian family also commissioned the Altınsaç Church in Van. The dome of the church is clover-shaped, and on the exterior, there are reliefs of the twelve apostles. After the Seljuk invasion, it started being used as Kümbet Mosque. When Kars was occupied by the Russians, it was once again used as a church, and two more doors were added. However, these doors were integrated so harmoniously that it’s hard to tell they were later additions. Finally, when the city returned to Turkish rule in 1918, the building became a mosque once again. We didn’t visit the interior, but based on its exterior, it’s one of the most impressive structures I’ve seen.

Ebul Hasan Harakani Tomb

Hasan Harakani was one of the greatest Sufi saints of his time. An original copy of the book Nurul Ulum, written by one of his disciples three centuries later, is cataloged in the British Museum, with its final section detailing Harakani’s life. Although I didn’t enter the tomb, from what I’ve seen in photos, it appears to be quite beautiful. What touched me most about Harakani was his will, where he stated that no one should ask about a person’s sect but instead offer them bread and a bed, emphasizing that those who receive the soul of God should not be questioned about their beliefs. This tomb is also located at the foot of the castle.

Kars Castle

As part of the tour, we didn’t climb the castle, nor was any information provided about it. Similarly, Piri also suggested that climbing the castle wasn’t particularly meaningful, so we opted to admire this towering structure from below. The castle was originally built by the Saltuks, later destroyed by Timur, and rebuilt by Sultan Murad III. It has undergone several restorations. Inside the castle, there are the Celal Baba Tomb, Janissary Barracks, Fields, an Armory, and a Mosque. The castle looks especially beautiful when illuminated at night (there were even some who braved the climb after dark, but I think the trek up in the evening requires some courage!).

Namık Kemal’s House

Namık Kemal’s ( a famous Turkish author and poet) grandfather was from Kars, and during his visits to his grandfather, he stayed at this mansion. The exterior of the mansion is quite plain, but inside, you can view old photos of Kars (these photos are also available at the Kars Museum). The house is located at the foot of the castle, and entry is free.

Kars Museum

This museum, which has gravestones in its garden, is quite intriguing. The presence of horses on the gravestones comes from polytheistic religions, where horses were seen as carriers of the soul and messengers to the gods. Since these messengers flew the highest, the goose also became significant; priests would interpret messages based on the shape of a goose’s foot. Disagreements between priests led to the Turkish expression “The goose’s foot is not like that” (used to mean something is different from what it seems). Male graves were marked by rams, while female graves were marked by sheep. Inside the museum, there are many archaeological artifacts, as well as jewelry, belts, woven carpets, and kaftans from ancient times. Entry is free.

Atatürk Children’s Library

Kars was one of the first cities to establish children’s libraries. This building has been used as a library since 1952 and continues to serve as a children’s library today.

Russian-Era Girls’ School

This is a very old building that was used as a girls’ school during the Russian period. The most notable feature is that Atatürk gave a speech from the corner balcony. There are many similar buildings from the Russian period on the street where the school is located.

Pushkin (Mazlumağa) Bathhouse

This bathhouse, where the Russian poet-writer Pushkin bathed in 1829, is known as Pushkin Bathhouse. Pushkin was so impressed by Kars that he mentioned it in letters to his wife. The bathhouse is located to the left of the Stone Bridge at the foot of the castle.

Lake Çıldır

This is the largest lake in Eastern Anatolia after Lake Van. Standing on its shore, it seems endless, stretching out for miles along the road. We didn’t see much development around it. I don’t think there’s much reason to visit in the summer, but in winter, the lake freezes over, and you can ride horse-drawn sleds on its surface. Both the lake and Kars are worth seeing in winter as well.

Ani Ruins

The BBC referred to the Ani Ruins as “a ghost town abandoned for centuries.” Having hosted various cultures and religions over the centuries, Ani now truly feels like a deserted place. It’s unfortunate that more hasn’t been done to promote it as a tourist destination. Even its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2016 doesn’t seem to have had much impact.

Entry to Ani is through the Lion Gate. As it was located on the Silk Road, Ani faced many attacks, and three different walls were built in three different periods. The walls had seven gates, the most important being the Lion Gate, Kars Gate, and the Gate with Cisterns. Today, we can only see what remains of these walls.

One of the remains in Ani is the Fire Temple. Zoroastrians worshipped here, with a fire burning continuously in the center.

The first mosque built by Turks in Anatolia is also located in Ani. From inside the Manucehr Mosque, you can photograph the Silk Road Bridge and the Church of the Young Girls. The mosque’s minaret has 99 steps, representing the 99 names of Allah.

In addition to these ruins, there are many churches and cathedrals. The Great Cathedral, also called the Cathedral of the Virgin Mary, was built by Mimar Tiriat, who also restored the Hagia Sophia. This cathedral is one of the first examples of Gothic architecture.

Saint Gregory Church is another church in Ani. Inside, there are numerous frescoes depicting both Armenian and Christian history, though many have been damaged. From the outside, it is the church you’ll most often see in Ani’s photos.

Across from Ani is Armenia, but since there are only empty fields, it’s not possible to see anything of Armenia from here.

Other places we couldn’t visit due to time constraints include the Cavalry Barracks, Hunting Lodge, Russian-Era Factories and Bridges, Jaferiye Mosque, and Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (now Fethiye Mosque).

Walking through the streets of Kars is a pleasant experience, especially to see the old buildings. For example, you can see the Ferah Hotel, where Orhan Pamuk stayed and wrote his novel Snow.