Things to Do in Zemun
How to Get to Zemun
Walking from the Old Town to Zemun takes about an hour to reach the center, but if you decide to stroll along the river, it will take nearly two hours. While the riverside path offers stunning views, it’s also quite long and can be tiring. The easiest and most affordable way to get to Zemun is by taking one of the buses (numbers 707, 706, or 84) from Zeleni Venac. Alternatively, you can download Yandex Go to call a taxi, which will get you there in under 30 minutes, and it’s reasonably priced.
Places to Visit in Zemun
Zemun became part of Belgrade in 1934 and has a rich history, having been besieged by various nations over time, which adds to its historical significance. Once home to a diverse mix of Catholics, Jews, Serbs, and Muslims, Zemun has a unique cultural heritage.
You can begin your tour of Zemun at the Yugoslavia Hotel, if it’s still standing during your visit. Before being bombed in 1999, this hotel hosted many famous visitors to Belgrade, including Queen Elizabeth. The hotel is renowned for its chandelier, which once held the title of the largest in the world, designed by Swarovski with 40,000 crystals. Rather than a traditional hanging chandelier, it was a flat, rectangular light fixture embedded in the ceiling. The chandelier was damaged during the bombings and is no longer functional, but after renovations, the hotel reopened for a New Year’s Eve party on December 31, 1999. However, the hotel is now scheduled for demolition to make way for a new residential complex featuring two towers—one for living spaces and the other for offices. Its abandoned state today makes it hard to imagine its former grandeur as a hub of luxury.
After visiting the hotel, head to the intersection of Miroslava Tirsa and Danila Medakovica streets to see two notable houses. Zemun’s modernist architectural area was designed in the 1930s following a city planning competition. The winner was one of Belgrade’s prominent architects, Mihailo Radovanović. You can also see an example of Yugoslav modernist architecture at the Air Force Headquarters building, which was abandoned after the bombings. Unfortunately, it’s not open to the public. There’s also a striking statue of Icarus on the side of the building, which was created by a female sculptor. I’ve seen some impressive photos of it at night, so if you’re there in the evening, keep it in mind.
In the center, you can visit Masarikov Square, where the Zemun market is held. The square is surrounded by cafes and flower shops. Zemun feels like a small town with its one-story colorful houses and narrow cobblestone streets, giving a vibe that’s very different from Belgrade, almost like a vacation town.
No visit to Zemun is complete without climbing Gardos Tower, which offers a great view of Zemun on a clear day. The climb up the stairs can be tiring, but another option is to take a bus and get off at the Nade Dimic stop, which leads to a flatter route to the tower. You can also start your tour here and head towards the hotel. The stairs in front of Gardos offer great spots for photos.
Before heading down the stairs, you can also visit Zemun Cemetery (“Zemunsko Groblje”). Some graves are quite grand, with large stones and photos of the deceased on them. There’s also a separate section for Jews. Visiting the cemetery is seen more as a personal act rather than a religious one, and sometimes people even bring food to eat there. Most visits happen on Sundays. It’s a quiet place, but compared to the cemetery in Glasgow, I wouldn’t say the gravestones here are particularly fascinating.
The riverside along the Danube offers a lovely green walking route that stretches uninterrupted by the water. Especially on Sundays, everyone seems to enjoy walking here and dining at the fish restaurants. There are benches along the way for resting, and it’s also a popular route for cyclists. You’ll also find floating hostels and charming cafes along the path.
There’s even a statue of the famous writer David Albahari, who grew up in Zemun and wrote in both English and Serbian. His wife had the statue made of him sitting on a bench along the river. Walking along the river is a real pleasure when the weather is nice.
Cafes and Restaurants in Zemun
Except for the first one listed below, all the places mentioned were visited during our most recent trip. The first one was still around, and I couldn’t help but look for it during my last visit 🙂
Splav Savana
During our second trip to Zemun, we visited a floating cafe recommended by locals. It has a unique African theme, both inside and out. Sitting outside, right by the river, was a delightful experience, especially with the peaceful surroundings. If the weather is chilly, you can opt to sit indoors, where the space is beautifully decorated with African masks. The menu is limited when it comes to snacks, so it’s not the best place if you’re looking for a full meal, but it’s perfect for enjoying a beer or coffee while taking in the view.
Stari Slep
A restaurant in Belgrade, recommended by our friends, is set inside a large steamboat, offering a unique dining experience. he menu is extensive, offering everything from fish and chicken to meat dishes and salads. Locals especially recommend the mixed fish plates. I tried the Cevapi, which was decent but nothing extraordinary. If you’re planning to visit on the weekend, it’s a good idea to make a reservation for a riverside table, as the view adds to the experience.
Petrovic Bakery
A bakery located in the square where the market is held, also recommended by locals. The dough and filling of the pastries were delicious, though it’s quite oily due to the type of pastry. Still, it didn’t upset my stomach. The pastries are sold by weight.
Milagro Restaurant
Since the fish restaurants were full, we decided to sit at a nice-looking spot we found and have a drink. Some of our friends couldn’t resist and ordered food. Those who had pizza and salad were very satisfied, and the pizza portions were quite large.
The restaurant has a mix of Spanish and Portuguese vibes, though it seems to be having a bit of an identity crisis. One wall is covered with small ceramic tiles reminiscent of Portugal, while the other has a painting of a woman dancing flamenco. Still, the colorful atmosphere was nice. The restaurant also has a two-story section on the other side of the road, which seems to have a completely different vibe.
Poslasticarna sa stavom
A great spot for ice cream, recommended by locals. There are many varieties, all homemade. I had pistachio cream and raspberry, and both were excellent.
Coffee Vibes
I didn’t have coffee here, but while we were in the market square, a friend of mine got one from this spot. She said it tastes good, the design of cupboards were impressing.
You can find my general guide on places to visit in Belgrade here.
