Things to Do in Alcala de Henares
While heading to Alcalá for a business trip, I couldn’t quite imagine what kind of place Alcalá would be. From the photos, it looked like a pleasant place, but I thought it was too small for a few days’ stay and that I might get bored. I even had thoughts like, “If I get bored, I’ll head to Madrid in the evenings.” Yet I ended up spending almost four days in Alcalá. Of course, two of those days were for my business visit, but I can say that I didn’t feel bored during the remaining two days either. I can say it was livelier and more pleasant than I expected. I was surprised that I hadn’t heard of it until now. From what I gathered, locals living in Spain frequently come here for weekend getaways. Since there are also Chinese students, you come across Chinese visitors here, who I assumed were visiting their children.
If you have extra time in Madrid, I recommend at least coming here for a day trip, or even staying overnight. Since it’s a university town, it’s lively, and according to the locals, it’s quite safe. The streets, buildings, and squares are also quite enjoyable. In terms of price, it’s also more affordable than Madrid, both for accommodation and dining.
Getting to Alcalá
By Train
You can reach Alcalá from Madrid by city train, taxi, or bus. While I chose the train to go to Alcalá, I must say it wasn’t easy with luggage. Trains to Alcalá depart from Madrid’s Chamartín Station and pass through Atocha. I boarded at Chamartín.
It’s hard to find someone who speaks English at this station; it’s unclear where to buy tickets or how to get to certain platforms. I missed the first train because of this. Later, a woman with some knowledge of English told me I could buy tickets from the machines. I selected Alcalá from the Renfe machines and got my ticket.
While the first train displayed the platform number 10 minutes beforehand, the next one gave the platform number only when the train arrived, and it showed on the signs that it was about to leave. Reaching the platform isn’t too difficult without luggage, but it can take time with bags. You’ll need to find the escalators or elevator.
As if reaching the train wasn’t hard enough, getting on and off the train with a medium-sized suitcase was also a separate challenge, as there were steps to climb. The train was very crowded. Once on board, I started worrying about how I’d get off since it was a mid-route stop. Fortunately, by the time we reached Alcalá, the train had emptied out quite a bit. I got off first, then retrieved my suitcase from the doorway, and thanked my luck for arriving safely. The train ride to Alcalá took about 45 minutes, and you can walk to the historical center in just 10 minutes from the station.
By Taxi
After the stress I experienced with the train, I decided to splurge and take a taxi on my way back to Madrid. It was a comfortable journey. While the train costs under 10 euros, the taxi ride, despite traffic, came to around 50 euros when I got off near Puerta de Sol. But that’s okay—life is too short to waste on stress and anxiety. Hopefully, I’ll soon be living a life where I won’t worry about spending euros. Universe, hear me…
There are taxi stands in Cervantes Square and next to the train station. There might be others, but I boarded from Cervantes Square.
By Bus
Although I saw buses around town, I didn’t use them, so I’ll leave the research to those considering them. You can look up bus number 223.
Where to Stay in Alcalá
I stayed at Hotel El Bedel, located in the most central point of Alcalá, in San Diego Square next to Cervantes Square. The University of Alcalá is right next to it. Since it’s so centrally located, everything is within a 5-minute walking distance.
The interior design was quite beautiful, with decorations made from parchments. There was a bit of an old-fashioned vibe and smell in the hotel. I expected the rooms to be better, but overall, I was satisfied. Having a 24-hour reception was an important detail for me since I was traveling alone.
There’s also a hostel (Complutvm) right next to the hotel, where some people stayed. You might want to check it out if interested. Hotel Miguel de Cervantes also has high ratings, and it was my first choice, but I changed my mind because it didn’t have a 24-hour reception.
Places to Visit in Alcala
The tourist map lists 66 places to see in Alcalá, but of course, I didn’t visit them all. I mostly focused on the ones that interested me and those that were recommended. You can prioritize according to your time.
University of Alcalá
The University of Alcalá is one of the oldest and most significant universities in Spain, both academically and historically. Education continues here, but like many other universities in Europe, its entry is open to the public. It has campuses spread throughout and beyond Alcalá. You can tour the main building in San Diego Square with a guide. I thoroughly enjoyed my guided tour and learned a lot about its history.
The university is known for producing many famous scientists, writers, philosophers, and intellectuals, including the likes of Miguel de Cervantes. Though it was once closed, the university was reopened thanks to public support. Many of its buildings feature Renaissance-style architecture. In 2001, it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
With the guide, you can enter some rooms that are usually locked. One such room is a former exam hall that makes you feel like you’re in a scene from Harry Potter. When I say exams, I don’t mean the usual written ones we’re familiar with. Imagine a student standing at a podium, answering questions, responding to any queries that might come their way, and being subjected to discouraging comments from those in the upper rows. The exam doesn’t last just one day; it goes on for days. Those who fail exit through the “Gate of the Donkey” in shame, while those who pass celebrate by giving a feast to the public. Of course, since money was an issue for the students, they eventually timed the exams to coincide with the Christian fasting period when no one ate meat. It’s hard to say whether they were happier about passing or upset about the costs.
Cervantes Museum
Since the city is already closely associated with Cervantes, you encounter many things related to him. The house where Cervantes was born has been converted into a museum. Entry is free, and they ask which country you are from and make a note of it. I couldn’t help but wonder if I might be the first Turkish visitor, but surely some exchange students at the university must have visited.
You can tour all the rooms here, from the room where Cervantes’ cradle is located to the study of his father, who was a doctor. There are also rooms where his works are displayed, along with news related to his writings. It’s a small two-story house, so you can explore it quickly and get a brief glimpse into Cervantes’ world. For detailed information about the museum, you can visit the museum’s website.
Cervantes Square
This is probably the largest square in Alcalá. There are cafes around it, and right in the middle is a statue of Cervantes. At the far end of the square (in the opposite direction from Calle Mayor), there is a monument related to Cervantes’ baptism. Additionally, there is a Tourism Office located here.
At certain times of the year, festivals are held in this square, but there were no events during my visit.
There is also a theater called Coral de Comedias in the square. I was recommended to see the interior, but the locals weren’t sure if it was possible without a ticket, so I didn’t try. You can ask if you’re interested.
Calle Mayor
Calle Mayor is quite a long pedestrian-only stone street. It’s the main route you’ll inevitably pass through to get anywhere and where you’ll likely seek out food. I walked up and down this street several times a day. The Cervantes Museum is also located on this road. On both sides of the street, there are small stone buildings with overhanging sections, which I’ll refer to as awnings, to shield pedestrians from the rain (I’m not sure of the architectural term). Under these awnings, there are restaurants, cafes, bars, and many shops where you can shop. I was surprised to find places like Ale-Hop and Flying Tiger in this small town. Additionally, one of Europe’s oldest hospitals, the Hospital de Antezana, which has been operating since 1483, is also located on this street.
Laredo Palace
One of the university staff recommended that I see the exterior of this building. Located on the way to the train station, I saved it for my last day. Indeed, this neo-Gothic building is quite pleasing to the eye from the outside.
In a bigger European city, they would surely have turned the backyard into a café, but here, unfortunately, it was left unused.
If I hadn’t left it for the last day, I would have liked to visit the interior, especially since the entrance fee was quite affordable (1 or 2 euros). Inside, there are archaeological remains and information about the history of Alcalá University. More than that, I would have liked to see the interior architecture out of curiosity.
Catedral Magistral de los Santos Justo y Pastor de Alcalá de Henares
The cathedral is located toward the end of Calle Mayor. Along with St. Peter’s Church in Belgium, it’s one of only two churches in the world to hold the title of “Master.” Despite its imposing Gothic architecture from the outside, I would say the interior isn’t particularly captivating if you’ve seen many other cathedrals and churches. Nevertheless, you’ll likely pass by it anyway, so you might want to take a quick look.
Casa La Entrevista
I didn’t visit this place, but it’s an important building as it’s known as the house where the Spanish King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella had their meeting with Columbus before his voyage to discover America. It wasn’t highlighted on the map, but keep it in mind. There are exhibitions held inside.
Parque O’Donnell
When I stepped outside the city walls, I noticed some unusual statues in front of the walls. While walking, I stumbled upon Parque O’Donnell, a rather large park where I took a break. The trees are quite tall, and I’m sure it’s even more pleasant in spring. It’s not a particularly special park, but if you feel like you need some greenery, you can stop by here for a breather, just like the locals.
