Things to Do in Belfast

Belfast was one of the places that surprised me during our Scotland-Ireland tour, but not with its beauty, rather with its history. I had no idea about the Protestant-Catholic divide in Ireland, so I was quite shocked when we visited an area where the passages between two neighborhoods (Shankill Road-Falls Road) were closed on Sundays and in the evenings. As I walked through this part of the map, I found myself questioning if I had misunderstood, as the civil wars I thought had been confined to the dusty pages of history appeared right before my eyes, fresh as ever.

I hadn’t misunderstood. The tensions between these two neighborhoods had only recently calmed down. The groups, still healing from their wounds, were kept apart, partly due to political manipulation. Economically, Belfast is one of the least developed places in Ireland, similar to other regions that have experienced civil conflict. You can sense this from the air around you, the profiles of the people, and the atmosphere of the city, which changes here. There are even moments when you might feel a bit uneasy while wandering around.

The long-standing conflict between these two neighborhoods is actually part of the broader disagreement between groups wanting to remain part of England and those fighting for independence. This dispute, dating back to the 1920s with the separation of Northern Ireland from the Republic of Ireland, escalated into violence in the 1960s and became known as “The Troubles.” Of course, it’s impossible to fully cover this conflict, which lasted for over 30 years, in this piece, but I wanted to briefly touch on it with what I remember. A civil war erupted when the Protestants wanted to remain part of the United Kingdom, while the nationalist Catholics wanted to stay connected to the Republic of Ireland. Shankill Road is where the Protestants lived, and Falls Road is where the Catholics lived. These neighborhoods witnessed the most violence during this period, from bombings to kidnappings and killings. Thousands of people died, and over 50,000 were injured. British soldiers intervened, but the violence only increased in the clashes with the IRA (Irish Republican Army). Eventually, after a long and arduous process, it became clear that neither side would emerge victorious, and the IRA declared a ceasefire. Talks between parties, which began in 1996, concluded in 1998 with the Good Friday Agreement, leading to the formation of a new government with representatives from both sides. Although the agreement was implemented, the conflict didn’t fully end until 2007, when the British army officially ceased its operations here. As a result, the traces of the conflict are still alive in this city or perhaps intentionally kept alive.

Nevertheless, thanks to the murals on the “Peace Wall” between these two neighborhoods, this is the most colorful part of the city. The walls feature many things, from peace messages to references to the Good Friday Agreement, depicting the history of a city…

In one of the streets, we came across a mural with children’s drawings and the word “Dream” translated into many languages, though unfortunately, I can’t remember the name of the street. If you ever find yourself in Belfast and come across this street, please let me know the name 🙂

Now, let’s talk about exploring Belfast as a tourist. Belfast is one of those cities with a river running through it, which, in my opinion, redeems it. There are artistic works along the Lagan River, and you can take a short and pleasant walk along the riverbank.

Queens University, located in the city center, also adds a distinct atmosphere to the city. Since universities here don’t require ID checks at the entrance, you can wander inside and even see the back garden. Still, the city does have a somewhat gloomy feel, especially on sunless days. Stores close early, and people retreat from the streets, draining the city of its vibrancy.

One of the standout spots in the city is the Crown Bar. This place, which fills up every night, is famous for its gin and tonics. As someone unfamiliar with the gin tonic culture, when I asked for the varieties, the woman behind the bar looked at us as if to say, “Which one should I list first?” We narrowed it down by requesting something fruity. The interior and exterior of the place are both charming. The atmosphere in the booth-like seating areas is quite unique, though it’s nearly impossible to find a spot. We were lucky to find seats at the bar, and it was only around 8 pm. I can’t even imagine how crowded it must get later in the night.

A bit further from the city center is the Titanic Museum, with exterior architecture resembling a ship. You can take a photo in front of the Titanic sign and visit the gift shop. Touring the inside of the museum requires a fee. The museum features many stories about the Titanic, from the musicians who kept playing as the ship sank to accounts that had they believed the man who first spotted the iceberg, they could have been saved. One of the facts our guide mentioned was something you might have come across on the internet but that I had heard for the first time: 14 years before the Titanic, a novel called “The Wreck of the Titan” was written, telling the story of an unsinkable ship that met its end. One can’t help but wonder if it was a prophecy or just a coincidence.

We stayed at the Ibis Hotel in Belfast, and I can say that its central location was its biggest plus. Since we were starving when we arrived at the hotel, we also had dinner there; the pizza and onion rings were decent.

One last note about Belfast for those traveling from Scotland to Ireland. Stena Line is a 10-deck ferry, reminiscent of cruise ships, with restaurants, cafes, and more on every deck. Just don’t be like us and miss out on the window seats when deciding where to sit as soon as you board 🙂